Friday, December 20, 2013

A Different Paris and Elusive Croissants

Paris-  Not my favorite European destination.  I have nothing specific against it and I very much enjoyed my first trip there.   It just didn't live up to what I spent years envisioning.  Once you get over that, then you can really enjoy Paris.  So why did I go back?

1.  Because there is a direct, fast train from Stuttgart. (3.5 hours)
2.  Because the train tickets were cheap. (approx. $80 roundtrip)
3.  Because I wanted to learn how to make croissants from a true French pastry chef
4.  Because I had two girlfriends ready and willing!

See how ready and willing they look?


We stayed out of the immediate center.  Our cooking class was way up in the 18th so we met in the middle and stayed in the 8th, the Opera District--Also known as the shopping district with Galleries Lafayette and Printemps.  We're talking serious, upscale shopping here.  How serious?  There were police everywhere outside the beautiful buildings patrolling and inside, there were many more + security guards.  Think doormen with top hats and well-dressed greeters when you enter.  Not really my scene but it was beautiful to see!  I imagine I could've found a pair of socks in one of these stores that cost more than my entire trip.  The stores were elaborate and even more so with the Christmas displays.








Our apartment was so inexpensive, we really thought we were compromising on location or something (in a harem building or above a meth lab) but oh no...The apartment was on a main shopping street literally, a few steps from Printemps.  Excellent location.

Taken from our balcony.  Printemps is straight ahead with the rounded tower.



Looking down from our balcony.  Don't laugh.  There is something very convenient about having a McDonalds close by sometimes. 

Unfortunately, having a McDonalds so close makes it tempting to run over for a bottled water after we've already changed into pajamas.  It didn't seem like such a bad idea until we opened the big door from the building to the street only to realize the very near cafe was packed with people outside. I was ashamed and I will never do that again.  We received one really aghast head-to-toe look from two girls at McDonalds.  I can't blame them.  We were staying in the shopping district for gosh sakes!  There was no excuse.

Look how sad we were about our poor choice.



** The owners have several flats in the building.  Yes, they're tiny but cute, super clean, excellent location next to a metro, small balconies, and the owners were friendly and helpful.  
http://www.pariscaumartin64.com/

Let's go ahead and get the "We just arrived to our little Paris apartment and we have berets" pictures out of the way because yeah, that's what we did first.





Pere Lachaise Cemetary

I had never heard of this place!  Lisa had a strong memory of her visit to Jim Morrison's grave when she was 17 and she wanted to see it again.  What a fascinating place!  I have never seen a cemetery like this...   So many famous folks are buried here:  Chopin, Oscar Wilde, and Colette to name a few of the more famous.  


The 'graves' were outrageous.  Tombs.  Shrines.  More accurate description I think.  Many of them had entrances with kneeling stools and mantels inside.

This was the oldest







Jim Morrison's grave 
Rather quaint considering the crazy elaborate ones surrounding!


They have now gated his grave and even had a security guard parked in front!  Evidently, people kept stealing the bust from it and I read people would sit and get drunk at his grave and leave a mess.  


We were not drunk nor did we leave a mess.

Um, ok.


Mathilde M.

It's an obsession of mine.  Beautiful, scented French biscuits, amazing scents, and a host of other delicate French goodies for the home. I picked up a few things once in a little French boutique somewhere and then realized I loved it and then realized it wasn't something you can't just go to Amazon and order.  I randomly ran across boutiques here and there that carried pieces of the line and was so excited to learn the main store was in Paris.  An entire store.  Not just a little section in a boutique.  We went on the hunt for this beautiful place, found it, and I went crazy out of fear I might not see another one again.  Biscuits, perfume, adorable hat boxes, hangers........



Cook'n With Class
www.cooknwithclass.com

It's why we were here.  To learn how to make those elusive croissants.  They offered everything from market classes to macaroon making courses.  We chose the baking because croissants just seem impossible or difficult to make.  As a follow-up note, I gave it a whirl this week and let's just say I need a lot of practice.  My shape was way off, they were very flaky and buttery, but still just a little off.  I'll keep trying until I get it right.  This one is important to me.

Emmanuelle was our instructor for the day and she really was wonderful.  Excellent English although of course with a serious French accent so I still found my self asking her to repeat herself.  She was funny and kind and most of all, tolerant of our antics.

Splashing our noses with flour for a picture.  






 The only thing not pictured because it was still in the oven was the raspberry&caramel apple strudel.  It was our favorite!!  Uses the same croissant dough but into a strudel.   We did pain au chocolat and also a pistachio creme filling sprinkled with chocolate chips.






We skipped most of the main attractions this trip since we all had been before but we did stop by the Sacre Couer for a climb to the top and a visit to the underground --neither of which we had done before.  










the Christmas Market down at Champs Elysees

Peekaboo. 





I gave Lisa and Shannon little travel notebooks with a small pen and asked them to write down anything significant we might want to remember later.  Shannon hasn't turned her homework in yet so I'll be back to add hers later.  

Here are just a few..

 Lisa's Notebook:

"Carolyn fell over in the dark.  No one was there; but she still told us about it.  Other people may have kept it quiet.  But she likes to share and we like that."

This is true.  I was walking to our local train station the day of our departure and I hit an iced grate and fell.  Bags flying, the whole 9.  Unfortunately, I actually did damage my poor foot because by Day #2 it was swollen, bruised, and quite painful but I still climbed those 300 stairs to the top of the Sacre Couer.

"Our metro stop at the apt looks strange.  It never looks the same ever & we get lost every time."

HA!

Carolyn's Notebook

"We were accosted by a group of Romanian women thieves.  I yelled really loud obscenities in front of a Holy place."

This happened!  We were at the Sacre Couer buying tickets for the little train to the bottom and all of a sudden we were surrounded by 5-6 women shoving notebooks in our faces as we all had our change purses out.  It was an interesting assault.  They were very organized as they formed a perfect semi-circle around us where we could go nowhere.  I was in the middle and pushed backwards to get behind them while shouting horrible things at them.  I feel bad about that but I was angry and afraid which means I yell.  The cops came to run them off.  We fortunately were not pick pocketed or robbed because we were properly carrying our things.  Broad daylight folks.  Women thieves.  Always be aware and be vigilant about carrying small cross-body purses.  

"Lisa's cheese picnic"  
That's all I wrote because I knew I wouldn't forget.  We are settled in the train and Lisa produces a magical cooler with a flippin' full on picnic complete with drinks, cheeses, breadsticks, and other goodies.  It made me laugh.   

This trip changed my mind about Paris a bit.  I think it depends on your expectations and what you want to do while there.  I enjoyed this trip very much!

I'm grateful for the friendships I've made here.  We are all such different people yet go so well together.  
Really great trip and I can't wait to do it again! 


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